Up Climbing #39
Canton Ticino
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The Canton of Ticino is a small area, but in some ways, it represents one of the most iconic and richest climbing locations in Europe!
This is certainly true for bouldering: since the discipline's resurgence in the 1990s, Ticino has truly become the world's leading bouldering destination. Its history, the concentration of extreme boulders, and the contribution of the large number of top climbers who have passed through have made it a true mecca of modern bouldering, surpassing even the legendary Fontainebleau.
But Ticino isn't just bouldering. Here we find historic crags such as Denti della Vecchia or Cresciano itself, whose vertical tradition predates the discovery of its famous boulders, along with many other crags, both ancient and more recent. At the same time, the canton offers countless opportunities for long routes: from Poncione d'Alnasca to Monte Eus to Parete di Osogna, to name just a few of the most well-known destinations. All immersed in an extraordinary natural setting, with valleys iconic for their beauty beyond climbing, first and foremost the Verzasca Valley.
Summing up in just a few pages what Ticino has to offer climbers is therefore a daunting, and perhaps even a bit presumptuous, task. We've tried, however, with the collaboration of figures who have experienced the canton's climbing history and know it well. Egon Bernasconi, Davide Mazzucchelli, Roberto Bassi, Fabrizio Fratagnoli, and Matteo Della Bordella will share their experiences with us, offering suggestions and insights for making the most of the walls of this splendid region.
To tell the story of bouldering, we wanted to give voice to those who have experienced it firsthand from the very beginning: Claudio Cameroni will offer us a passionate summary of the history of Ticino bouldering, while Giuliano and Diego will delve deeper into the topic, supported by the insights of Greta Di Biase, the promising star of Italian bouldering.
As always, our columns and suggestions, including non-European and "exotic" ones, will accompany this journey to discover the Canton of Ticino.
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Year 2025Pages 120Height (cm) 27.0Width (cm) 21.0Thickness (cm) 0.6Weight (kg) 0.38Series code MAG 039Language Italian