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Luoghi verticali / Climbing
Civetta - South Side

Civetta - South Side

Cantoni di Pelsa - Western Ridge - Cantoni della Busazza - Eastern Ridge

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Manrico Dell'Agnola
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Insights
  • Southern Civetta is one of the most complex mountains you can find. The main massif appears on the map like an immense claw, roughly oriented with three front “fingers” pointing south and a rear finger to the north. Access from south is certainly the most convenient: the rock structures are at a lower altitude, less severe thanks to their southern exposure with very high, vertical walls, with towers of compact limestone which look inaccessible.

    The Dolomites are covered in towers and peaks, but often the most popular among these are nothing more than big rocks compared to the seven hundred metres of Torre Trieste or the eleven hundred metres of the Busazza arête. Climbing up Mussaia you get the impression that between two great towers there is a labyrinth of summits and spires, these are Cantoni di Pelsa and Cantoni della Busazza. The distinction is more visual than structural: the Cantoni di Pelsa end before the massive chunk of rock of Cima di Terranova, while the Cantoni della Busazza can be considered to extend up to the start of the ridges that then turn northwards to enclose the Van del Giazzer. Seen from the front, however, they appear as one single structure. 

    Climbing Cantoni means sunshine, realtively short approach walks, no worrying about tricky descents or sudden weather changes, free climbing on good rock with mostly natural protection and a carefree life between one climb and the next. There are also very difficult routes here, often with sections of very loose rock, descents like that of Torre Trieste, and faces like the west wall of the Busazza, over a thousand metres high, in the shade for most of the day, with no retreat routes to the sides, and summit altitudes of around 3000metres.

    Manrico Dell'Agnola, born in Agordo in 1959 and ever since he was a young boy he showed his passion for climbing and the mountains even if he didn’t start climbing until the age of twenty. His great desire for this activity quickly led him to reach remarkable results, both in Italy and abroad and the need to capture those magical moments drew him towards photography, in fact he then became one of the most esteemed mountain photographers. His first solo ascents date back to 1981, the same year he climbed El Capitan along the Nose as well as completing many first Italian ascents from Yosemite to Colorado. From then on he
    has collected thousands of ascents all over the world, but his heart still beats strongly for the Dolomites which he continues to frequent. Manrico now lives in Mel, where he works as a creative professional, he is an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), a writer and photographer… but he still considers climbing the most important thing.

  • Year 2025
    ISBN 978 88 55471 794
    Pages 482
    Height (cm) 21.0
    Width (cm) 15.0
    Thickness (cm) 2.0
    Weight (kg) 0.7
    Series code LV 179/3